Ascent of Lenin Peak (7134m)

Trip overview

Bishkek — Osh — Base Camp (3600m) — Summit (7134m) — Base Camp — Osh — Bishkek

Why go there?

Lenin Peak is the best start for the «Snow Leopard» climbing program (all five seven-thousanders of the former USSR) and also the best initiation into high altitude climbing and into eight-thousanders’ world accordingly. The «Snow Leopard» title used to be one of the highest sports titles in the former Soviet Union.

Lenin Peak, set in extremely beautiful, powerful scenery, is probably the easiest 7000m peak in the world. As to the technical difficulties of the classic route (from north), it is a straightforward climb, similar in grade to those on Mont Blanc and Elbrus. Yet, the mountain is really high (2300m higher than Mont Blanc and 1500m than Elbrus), so it is by no means a «snow plod». Normally there is a trail in snow between the camps and from the assault camp to the summit, yet, the long final ridge has a couple of exposed pitches. These are climbed roped up, moving together. The glacier between BC and Camp 2 is crevassed and there is some risk (not high) of avalanches.

Itinerary
Day 1     Arrival in Bishkek International Aiport (the capital of Kirghizia), waiting for an hour or so for the connection flight to
Day 2     Transfer from Osh to Achik-Tash Base Camp. 8-9 hours’ journey on a rough road, 280km. Accommodation in stationary tents in BC. Breakfast, lunch, dinner.
Day 3     Acclimatizing climb of Petrovskogo Peak (4830m).
Day 4     Rest and preparation
Day 5     Walk to Camp 1 (4200m).
Day 6     Walk to Camp 2 (5300m).
Day 7     Ascent to Camp 3 (6100m).
Day 8     Descent to Camp 1.
Day 9     Descent to BC.
Day 10     Rest and preparations
Day 11     Rest and preparations
Day 12     Walk to Camp 1 (4200m).
Day 13     Walk to Camp 2 (5300m).
Day 14     Ascent to Camp 3 (6100m).
Day 15     Summit day with descent to Camp 3.
Day 16     Descent to Camp 1.
Day 17     Descent to BC
Day 18     Reserve day to make up for a spell of bad weather.
Day 19     Transfer to Osh. Guest House accommodation.
Day 20     Fly to Bishkek. Hotel accommodation.
Day 21     Flight home.