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Ascent of Evghenii Korzhenevskoy Peak (7105m)

Why go there?

Evghenii Korzhenevxkoy Peak (or just «Korzhenevsky» as Russian climbers call it, stands 13km north of Komminizma (Communism) Peak, in the northern part of the Akademii Nauk (Academy of Sciences) Range. The first scientist to see and measure the peak (on the 23rd of August in 1910) was a Russian geographer, Nikolay Korzhenevsky.
He named it after his wife Evgheniya, but as an official geographic name it appeared on the maps only in 1927.
The first successful attempt was made in 1957, on the 22nd of August, and the climbers (team from St.Petersburg led by A. Ugarov) went from the Korzhenevskaya Glacier by the north ridge.
The climbing routes on the peak differ greatly: about 10 variants of difficulty. The easiest and safest one is the classic: from the Korzhenevskaya Glacier by the south ridge.

Ascent of Evghenii Korzhenevskoy Peak (7105m)

Day 1     Arrival in Dushanbe. Hotel accommodation.
Day 2     Helicopter flight to Moskvina Glade (4400m). Accommodation in Base Camp (BC).
Day 3     Rest, preparations and acclimatization in BC.
Day 4     Acclimatizing climb of Vorobyova Peak (5691m) with camp at 5300m.
Day 5     Ascent of Vorobyova Peak, descent to BC.
Day 6     Rest day
Day 7     Acclimatizing outing to Korzhenevskaya Peak. Ascent to Camp 1 (5100m). Following a well marked path we cross the Moskvina Glacier to its head (5100m). We either stop here, or, if the time and remaining strength allow, go higher to 5300m and pitch the camp here. 3-4 fixed ropes may be used for this passage.
Day 8     In case we have stopped yesterday at 5100m, we go without loads to 5300m. The path traverses the slope, comes to the junction of the chaotic glacier’s side and its rocky bank and goes on its rocks. Stone-falls are a real danger here, so helmets are a must. The camp at 5300m sits on the right bank moraine. From there we descend to BC.
Day 9     Rest day in BC
Day 10     Rest day in BC
Day 11     We go to 5100m, pitch tents and camp.
Day 12     Ascent to Camp 2 (5800m). We climb up a wide ice and snow slope of moderate steepness (with crampons on), then rope up and cross some crevasses at its upper part. The approach to Camp 2 is rather a steep slope jutting to the peaks’ south-west rock wall. The tents are protected from rock-falls by some overhangs.
Day 13     Descent to BC
Day 14     Rest day in BC
Day 15     Rest day in BC
Day 16     Ascent to Camp 1 (5300m)
Day 17     Ascent to Camp 2 (5800m)
Day 18     Ascent to Camp 3 (6400m). We put on crampons and in a long traverse move along the ice-snow slope under the south-west wall towards the Camp 3. The slope is steep, so we use 4 fixed ropes. Besides, due to rock-fall and avalanche threat, this traverse presents a serious objective danger. A 100m high steep pitch demands almost vertical fixed ropes. Having climbed over a minor pinnacle called «Parus» we come to a saddle (6100m), where several tents can be put at a pinch. Yet, a much better place (the normal one for the assault camp), is further along the ridge, behind a 20m high vertical rock step, on a wide snow slope (6400m).
Day 19     Ascent day. First we walk on a wide snow slope, then move, using either fixed ropes or belaying, along a ridge narrow like a knife (6550m). At 6700m the ridge flattens into the summit slope, then the easy summit ridge.
Day 20     Descent to Camp 3 (6400m)
Day 21     Descent to BC
Day 22     Reserve day
Day 23     Reserve day
Day 24     Reserve day
Day 25     Helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Hotel accommodation.
Day 26     Flight home

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